Embroidery or printing of logos on workwear: how to choose

When to embroider and when to print

Embroidery is a stitch made of thread through fabric. Printing is a layer on the fabric: screen printing, transfer film (flex, flock, DTF) or sublimation. Almost every further decision stems from this difference.

In practice, embroidery is more commonly used on polo shirts, cardigans, softshells and caps, while printing is used on T-shirts, trousers, high-visibility clothing, membrane jackets and anywhere the motif has multiple colours or a gradient. Both techniques are described on the page logo embroidery and printing.

What survives industrial washing

If clothing is washed by an external or in-house laundry, this is a different regime from a household programme: higher temperatures, stronger chemistry and tunnel drying or ironing. The test procedures for industrial washing and finishing of workwear are compiled in EN ISO 15797, while EN ISO 6330 is used for household washing and drying when testing textiles. Ask the laundry which regime they use, and record this information in the order.

• Thread: polyester generally withstands high temperatures and bleach better than viscose, which is glossier but fades faster. For regular industrial washing, request polyester.
• Transfer films: some are also declared suitable for industrial washing. Request the manufacturer's data on temperature and number of cycles, not merely a 'durable' label.
• Screen printing withstands many cycles if the ink is properly cured. A thin film on trousers passing through a tunnel finisher is among the first to lift.

Before a batch run, make a sample on the same material and put it through several cycles of your actual washing programme, for example five. This is the cheapest test available to you.

Certified equipment: marking can affect the class

Personal protective equipment is certified in the form in which it was tested, under the framework of Regulation (EU) 2016/425. Any subsequent alteration to the garment constitutes a modification of the product. What is permitted is stated by the manufacturer in the instructions; without their written confirmation, assume that the marking is not covered.

High visibility (EN ISO 20471). The class depends on the minimum areas of visible material on the garment:

A logo covers part of the fluorescent background, and this area is deducted. The margin is smallest at the smallest garment sizes, so the same back print may retain the class at size XL but reduce it at size S. Retroreflective tape is generally not printed on or embroidered over.

For garments protecting against heat and flame, welding, electric arc, chemicals and static electricity (EN ISO 11612, EN ISO 11611, IEC 61482-2, EN 13034, EN 1149-5), ordinary polyester thread is not suitable, as it melts under heat, and a standard transfer film is not tested within this system. Threads and labels approved for this purpose by the garment manufacturer are used instead. The meaning of individual markings is compiled in the glossary of standards, and the full product group is covered under personal protective equipment.

Membrane and winter jackets: every stitch is a hole

A membrane jacket is waterproof thanks to the laminate and sealed seams. It is tested to EN 343, where the classes indicate resistance to water penetration and resistance to water vapour transfer, while the newer edition of the standard also adds an optional rain chamber test.

Embroidery on such a jacket means several thousand needle punctures through the membrane. Each one is a possible path for water, and in such cases the manufacturer often no longer honours the waterproofing warranty. Options in order of preference:

1. A transfer film declared for laminates, applied with the pressing temperature and time from the film's specification.
2. An embroidered patch on hook-and-loop or buttons. The jacket can be reassigned to another worker, and the patch replaced.
3. Embroidery only on parts without a membrane, for example on the pocket flap, if the manufacturer permits this.
4. Embroidery with sealing on the inside. This works, but it is not equivalent to an untouched laminate.

The same applies to insulated winter jackets, with the added issue that stitching compresses the insulation at the logo location. Winter clothing is tested to EN 342 for cold and to EN 14058 for cool environments, and in both cases thermal insulation is part of the tested property.

Price: what it consists of for small and large batches

The price cannot be stated without the logo and quantity, but it is possible to explain what it consists of.

• Embroidery: a one-off digitisation of the logo into a stitch file, followed by a per-piece price that depends mainly on the number of stitches and less on the number of colours. It decreases moderately with higher quantities. Digitisation is charged once per motif and size, so repeat orders of the same motif are more cost-effective.
• Screen printing: a screen is prepared separately for each colour. For one or two colours and larger runs, it is usually the most cost-effective option, but for ten pieces, the setup cost outweighs everything else.
• Transfer film and DTF: almost no setup required, so the per-piece price is similar for five and for five hundred pieces. A common choice for small runs and multi-colour designs.

Two factors increase the price more than quantity does: the number of positions, since each chest, back and sleeve position is a separate process and separate clamping, and individual names, where each piece requires its own setup. If the team changes frequently, names on a removable patch are usually cheaper than embroidered ones.

Which file to send

Most delays with a first order arise from the file, not the machine.

• A vector is the starting point: AI, EPS, PDF or SVG, with text converted to curves. Either technique can be produced from a vector.
• Embroidery: the vector first goes through digitisation, i.e. into a stitch file, for example DST. It is produced for a specific size and position, and a different size means new preparation.
• Printing: if a vector is genuinely unavailable, the raster image must be prepared at final size at a minimum of 300 dpi. A logo taken from a website or an e-mail signature is rarely usable for printing.
• Colours: provide colour codes, for example from the Pantone scale. Thread and film have a limited palette, so the shade is selected by the nearest match and confirmed before the production run.
• Backgrounds: also prepare a single-colour version of the logo. A coloured version on dark garments or a fluorescent background is often not legible.

Along with the file, send the position, size in millimetres, and the garment model on which the motif will appear.

What should be stated in the order

• Technique for each item individually, not just the word logo.
• Position and size in millimetres for each position.
• Washing regime with the desired temperature and drying method.
• For certified equipment, reference to the product standard and information on whether the manufacturer has confirmed the marking in writing.
• An approved sample, photograph or physical item, before starting the production run.
• Who keeps the stitch file and under which code, so that a repeat order matches the first.

This information is also sufficient for an enquiry, if you need an estimate for a specific model.

Embroidery works well where the motif is small, simple and needs to withstand frequent washing, while printing works well where the motif is large, multicoloured, or where it is not advisable to pierce the material. For certified equipment, the order is reversed: first check what the manufacturer permits and what the class marking allows, then choose the technique.